Alia Bhatt & Kim K are proof that anatomy-inspired ensembles scream high fashion

This year’s Paris Fashion Week kicked off with L’Oréal’s annual ritual, the ‘Walk Your Worth’ showcase. Alia Bhatt for one, now also global ambassador to the brand of the hour, walked the PFW ramp for the very first time, marking her debut. Alia’s ensemble for the night was a far cry away from her usual, simplistic silhouettes. The steeled in likeness of a svelte torso not only stole the show on the ramp but also allows us to throw it back to times when anatomy-inspired ensembles have had their moment in the public eye.
But first, a little fashion history crash course on the niche aesthetic. Clothes mimicking the arches and bends of the torso is not unheard of. We have the booming business of fast fashion dupes to thank (or blame) for that. But Jean Paul Gaultier was among the first to bring this vision to life on the ramp. The designer used body-illusion graphics for his Spring/Summer 1996 collection, Cyberbaba. From blazers to bombers to lose-fit button downs — light, digitally-placed tracings of shapely chests and abs made for the USP of these one-of-a-kind pieces.
If you’re looking for a more ornate, original take on this, look no further than Vivienne Westwood. Thoroughly beaded silhouettes stood ever-so-slightly lined with darker hues to mimic the likeness of a torso were the statement pieces from her 1987 Autumn/Winter show. What you weren’t expecting here however, is a sharp slash across the chest leading to a flow of red beads dripping down like blood.
It isn’t hard to see why names like these then, have gone down in the annals of history as legends. Not only were these looks ahead of their time but they artistically hoisted sexuality as a welcome theme on the ramp, that too in fully-clothed ensembles. Coming back to the present-day, there are many notable names who have happily taken the sartorial tradition ahead.
Arguably among the most statement pieces at the Walk Your Worth showcase, Alia strutted down the ramp in her Paris Fashion Week debut, looking her chicest-self in a Gaurav Gupta breastplate. The glistening work of art in silver carried dents likened to resemble a svelte midriff and a tight navel. The bust carried subtle detailing along the rim, resembling wings. Sharara pants in black and looped chainmail earrings made for the final details. One of Alia’s best looks we say.
At this point there’s really nothing Kim K hasn’t tried out and we love her for that. Kim switched up the red and white for some stylishly Grinch green magic on Christmas Eve of 2020. Designed by Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli, the two-part look featured a bodice made from molded leather in a Jaguar green. This was paired with a simple, draped skirt in silken velvet, also in an absinthe-like hue. A slick, waist-length braid and statement brinjal-shaped Schiaparelli earrings, completed her look.
‘Science fiction-cyberpunk aesthetics’ was the inspiration behind Kylie Jenner’s psychedelic catsuit in swirling blues, blacks and purples from one of her Nobu outings in March 2021. Pierre-Louis Auvray, who goes by the name of ‘Forbidden Knowledge’ in the fashion circuit was the designer. Right from the horse’s mouth, in an interview with British Vogue, Pierre-Louis elaborated, “When looking at the work of (artists) Hajime Sorayama or Pater Sato, there’s always a mix of fantasy and eroticism, and I’m very inspired by this when I draw my own prints”. Specifically for Kylie’s catsuit, he airbrushed the silhouette of a body onto scuba fabric — “as if it was trapped within the garments” is how he described it.
For a series of photographs taken by Davis Factor in the 90s, Robert Downey Jr donned a simple crew neck shirt, plastered with the likeness of sculpted a sculpted chest and abs. The vintage photo also screams all other kinds of chic, courtesy of the plaid pants, slippers and chunky sunglasses. Also, full points to Robert for casually flexing his forearms. Very on-theme.
Do you think anatomy-inspired fashion has long-term mainstream potential?